13 Tips For Best Airbrush Paint For Plastic Models Reddit

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13 Tips for Best Airbrush Paint For Plastic Models Reddit | Best Budget Airbrush Paint

• You will also need to regularly clean the inside of the nozzle, depending on your airbrush this might require a wrench but they are always included with the airbrush. To clean a nozzle, I use a wooden toothpick soaked in alcohol, you just insert the toothpick into the wide end of the nozzle and twist it around to clear up any clinging dried paint, alcohol is a good solvent for this because it basically melts acrylic paint. There are many different airbrush cleaning kits online, but many of those are known to scratch up your nozzle and this can be very damaging, so maybe avoid these. - Source: Internet
• Trigger operation, as described in above sections, the trigger actuates both air and paint flow. Working on a small scale miniature, you will want very little paint flow when getting into the nitty gritty details, this means you will want to slowly pull back on the trigger until you have just a tiny little spray pattern. It’s a good idea to grab a piece of paper and simply practice controlling your spray pattern before you actually get into painting your miniatures proper. - Source: Internet
• Aside from the compressor and airbrush, you will need a water trap/regulator. These are very cheap and you don’t need a high-end expensive brand in this case, a cheap one will do just fine. Basically this item attaches to your air compressor directly and then your air hose connects to the regulator and then to your airbrush, a water trap does what it sounds like, traps water. Compressors and compressed air tanks generate precipitation, if you don’t have a water trap, that water will go into your hose, through your airbrush and spit out onto your model and ruin your paint job. The water traps also serve the dual purpose of being regulators, they have a gauge that displays PSI and a knob that lets you control the air flow and pressure. - Source: Internet
• You have other options, shop compressors are generally very loud, but they produce higher pressure, typically come with a tank and can be had for the same price as the bottom-range of airbrush mini compressors, or even cheaper and a lot of people already have a shop compressor so it may be easier for you to buy the appropriate fittings and a water trap for your shop compressor than buy an airbrush compressor. Another option is to go with a CO2 refillable tank, basically a canister that you take to a shop that can refill it and voila you have a tank full of compressed air which you hook to a regulator and your airbrush and that’s it. I don’t know much about this option so I’ll refer you to our good friend Jayadan on Youtube. - Source: Internet
• Ideally you should have a ventilator setup, a ventilator is essentially a fan that sucks the air out of your room, filters it to some extent and ideally, pushes it outside, for our purposes we would use what is called a spray booth, which is essentially a small enclosure with a fan at the back, you sit in front of the enclosure, spray your paints and the fan in the back will suck it away from you and somewhere else. Now, there are multiple options when it comes to a spray booth, you can make your own such as Gomenchaii has here, which can be done any number of ways using household things such as a box fan and an air filter that goes in your household vents, all attached to the backside of an open cardboard box, there are many guides online to do this. Alternatively you can buy one, the most affordable option is the Master Spray Booth which is essentially a big cheap plastic enclosure with a computer cooling fan at the back, but don’t mistake cheap for being of bad quality in this case, this is the only Master brand product I would recommend nine times out of ten. - Source: Internet
• Although I feel like I’ve been steadily improving with my brush painting skills, I’ve gotten frustrated enough that I’m ready to go ahead and buy an airbrush so I can achieve better finishes more easily and paint larger models such as 1/35 armor and 1/48 aircraft. I had a cheap $20 Central Pneumatic airbrush which doesn’t really work and as such I’m ready to invest a decent amount of money ($120) to obtain a decent airbrush which can consistently work and is forgiving to use for a beginner such as myself who will undoubtedly not thin my paints enough, struggle with dry tip, etc. So far I’ve narrowed down my options to three different airbrushes: - Source: Internet
• This is just to preserve an old official airbrush guide that was removed due to the user deleting their account. I am not the creator of this guide, just wanted to post it to keep it as reference for others. Removed referral links. - Source: Internet
• So, the way an airbrush works is paint comes through a channel, down the needle and stops where the needle seats into the nozzle. When you press down on your trigger, the air valve opens and releases air which travels through it’s own separate channel and into the air cap, where it flows down the outside of the nozzle and tip of the needle. When you pull back on your double action trigger, it unseats the needle from the nozzle, creating a gap between the two and allowing paint to flow out. Where is says “Venturi” is where the vacuum is created, which sucks the paint out of your paint feed and creates an aerosolized spray that comes off the very point of the needle. The further away the tip of the needle is from the subject you’re painting, the larger the spray pattern will be and visa versa when you’re closer to your subject. - Source: Internet
• Cleaning your airbrush between colors, if you have an airbrush cleaning station, stick the brush in there, spray out all your color. I like to add water into the cup afterwards to get some of the loose paint out and then run a few drops of airbrush cleaner through it, this will make sure and get all the color out of your airbrush. Before you add your next color, run some more water through it to get the cleaner out and then you’re ready for your next color. - Source: Internet
• One of the best things about having an airbrush is that priming becomes a quick and simple task that you can do inside with a ventilator. I know of two types of airbrush primer, Badger and Vallejo. Both primers are intended to be sprayed straight out of the bottle without thinning, although this can vary and I find that Vallejo primer sometimes is inconsistent and needs a little bit of thinning. - Source: Internet
• PSI, this is also important, especially working on very small scale miniatures. Judging by what I’ve read and my experience, 12-18 PSI is a good air pressure for painting miniatures. Paint consistency also plays into your PSI, if you have a thicker paint, a higher PSI will be required to pull it out of the nozzle, a thinner paint requires less PSI, so in general you want your paint nice and thin but not overly so. - Source: Internet
• As to what brand you should buy, Iwata, Badger and Harder & Steenbeck, Paasche are all great brands with multiple entry level brushes such as the Iwata HP-CS, Iwata Revolution, Badger Krome, Harder & Steenbeck Infinity etc. They also have higher-end models like the Iwata Kustom Micron. You’ll be great picking an airbrush from any of these brands, they all have pretty good build quality and tolerances. - Source: Internet
• Edit by /u/Matosawitko An additional drawback of most tankless models is that the air pressure can pulse in rhythm with the piston. This is buffered by a tank, so shouldn’t be an issue on a tank model. Not a big issue if you’re shooting staples or filling a tire, but can be a big problem for a scenario like airbrushing. It’s important to note, this problem of pulsing can be fixed by using a longer air hose. - Source: Internet

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